How To Choose A Coat: Men’s Style Guide

K4Fashion Team

2 years ago

As autumn falls, the streets of the city become rainy and cool. In a warm woolen suit and under an umbrella, you can hardly keep the body and not get wet. In such cases, a coat or cloak will help you to get rid of dampness and coolness. How to pick up a coat and how they differ – the theme of this article.

Over the years, a wide variety of coats, raincoats, jackets, and overcoats have emerged. They all vary in weight, style, and heritage, so to speak. Classic coat varieties of no more than 6, which have stood the test of time and in some countries, can even pass from father to son.

For a simplified understanding, let us explain the following points:

A coat is a kind of winter or demi-season outerwear, with long sleeves. The lengths vary, from short ones that end at the hip to long ones that end below the knees.
A raincoat is a type of demi-season outerwear, much thinner and lighter than a coat.
An overcoat is a heavy and bulky coat with roots in military history.

How To Pick Up A Coat For A Man

A good coat should be warm, it should fit your type and you should look good in it. Every man who respects himself should know how to pick up a coat. This requires knowing what the coat is made of, how big it should be and how it should fit.

Materials

If you plan to wear a coat for many years, make sure you buy a 100% wool coat. Accordingly, the cost of such a product will not be the most budgetary, I hope you understand this. On the average man, such a coat should weigh about 2 kilograms. Synthetic materials wear out quickly and do not give the proper comfort to the owner.

The coat made of cashmere is also very good. It is soft, warm, but the cuffs and collar of the coat are subject to rapid wear and tear, and the price of cashmere coats will be at least 2 times higher than woolen. If you compare cashmere coats and 100% wool heat, you won’t notice much difference. Except for the tactile sensations of cashmere – softer. A great compromise is a mixture of wool and cashmere.

1930s men’s attire for the winter season

Men's 1940s trench coat with hat for winter season

Sleeves

Coat sleeves should be long and cover the sleeves of the jacket as well as the cuffs of the shirt. This way you won’t get your hands caught and your wrists won’t be open when you wear gloves.

Coat Length

As a rule, the coat should be long and reach ankle level. Typically, these long coats are worn by statuesque gentlemen who are over 50 years old. Most young men prefer coats to the knees. I think young people choose coats shorter because of the ease of movement, and legs are slimmer than men’s.

By the way, it is more convenient to get in and out of the car in a short coat without fear of getting dirty on the dirty thresholds of your favorite coat. In Europe and America, it is not so dirty, but we have to look for a place in winter, where to get out of the car and not get into a chemical slurry, remotely resembling the composition of snow and tar.

At the same time, a long coat keeps warmth better and protects you from strong winds from the neck to the ankles of your feet. Choosing the length of your coat remains a matter of taste and compromise.

When you go to the store for a coat, make sure you remember to wear your shirt, jacket, or suit. Better yet, grab a blazer or cardigan made of thick knitted wool. All this is necessary to pick up a coat that will be good, and most importantly, it is comfortable to sit on you when you are in a suit.

Some people love it when the coat fits freely and does not stifle the movement. Others, on the contrary, prefer a tight-fitting coat with a tightened belt. It’s all a matter of taste, but keep in mind that the coat should fit well on your shoulders and not hang on the sides. Also, if there are extra folds of the fabric where they shouldn’t be or the coat is so wide that you look like a bell, it’s obviously not your model. Look for another manufacturer or style.

Polo coats

Style And Style

Whatever the style and style of the coat are, again, it’s a matter of taste. A single-breasted coat (this is when a row of buttons is one) is a more informal and versatile style. A double-breasted coat (two rows of buttons) looks more official and, in addition, a little warmer, as you have 2 layers of woolen fabric on your chest, instead of 1.

Quality Cut

High-quality coats are sewn from a single fabric, without any cuts and individual pieces of fabric. This coat is durable and looks more solid. If you don’t have any problems with finances, choose a coat from a solid canvas.

Ulster coat

Less expensive coats are made of small pieces of fabric. Sutures can usually be seen on the back and/or waist.

Types Of Men’s Coats

So, with the basic details of the classic concept of a man’s coat, we’ve sorted it out. For a more detailed study of one of the main elements of the outerwear of a businessman, I suggest disassembling 6 classic coats: Chesterfield, Covert, Barberry or Trench, a classic coat, Ulster, and Polo.

These varieties of men’s coats have not changed radically for many decades, however, remain relevant to this day.

Let’s start with a coat called Chesterfield. The coat was named after Count Chesterfield and was invented in the middle of the XIX century. It was the first coat of its kind. Since then, the Chesterfield coat has not changed in practice and has retained the following features:

Coats are single-breasted.
At the waist, there are no seams or shooters.
Short and pointed lapels.
Velvet collar (on some models).
Pockets are straight and sewn from above, similar to the side pockets of a jacket.
No cuffs.
There is one slot on the back of the jacket (cut).

Chesterfield coat

Chesterfield long coat

The classic Chesterfield coat, which is long to the knees, is grey or dark grey and is oriented to the business dress code. The best models have a velvet collar.

Covert Coat

Covert’s coat is very much like a Chesterfield coat, but its purpose is a little different. It was created for outdoor hunting. That’s why the material used to sew the coat is adapted to different weather conditions: dirt, rain, wind, and cold. Previously, this coat weighed quite a lot, but modern technology has significantly reduced the weight of the product. Traditionally, they use a dark green color coat, so that the dirt was not very noticeable if you get dirty.

Features of Covert coat:

Coats are single-breasted.
Sharpened lapels.
Made of dark green fabric.
Coat to the knees, slightly covering the jacket of the suit.
Well stitched cuffs (4 – 5 times on the cuff) and the hem of the coat, sometimes stitched pocket valves.
There is one slot on the back of the coat (cut).
In addition to two pockets, like a jacket, there are two more with a slight slope on top. In addition, there is a breast pocket.
Often the collar is made of corduroy.
Very large and deep inside pocket (you can put the whole newspaper or even iPad).

Single-breasted three buttons overcoat

Classic covert coat

Multiple stitched sleeves cuffs, brightly distinguish the coat Covert from others. Dense, wear-resistant fabric will allow you to “dry” from any wet weather. Everything says that the coat will last for 10 years, not less. As for the business dress code, a Covert coat is not the best choice, it is better to look at another model.

The Trench coat, or Barberry coat, is a classic coat invented during the First World War. By the way, the Trench coat, in turn, has become another product – a raincoat. The author of the coat is Thomas Burberry, founder of Burberry. During the Anglo-Boer War, the Trench coat was intended for British officers. The coat was made of gabardine, an innovative, durable, and well-ventilated fabric that repulsed water and warmed up in rainy weather. Only officers were allowed to wear the coat; they could buy the coat on their own paycheck, as the coat was not part of the uniform of the soldiers. Today, Trench’s coat is worn not only by officers but also by ordinary citizens.

The modern Trench coat is made of wool, cotton, and leather. The traditional khaki color is khaki, but today black and blue are most common, even with a cage print (a traditional Barberry cage, for example).

Features coats Trench or Barberry:

A double-breasted coat with six buttons.
On the back part, there is one slot (cut).
Wide sleeve with a belt on cuffs.
Epaulets on the shoulders (a relic from wartime; before, there were signs of military distinction – shoulder straps).
A protective flap of fabric on the chest (protects a part of a fastened coat – the upper button, which is sewn almost on the shoulder).
There is a belt.

Trench coat with raglan sleeve

Cashmere trench coat

When buying a Trench coat, keep in mind that it should not fit tightly to the body. It is recommended to come in a suit and try on your coat, tie your belt and buckle up completely to feel the comfort/inconvenience of the Trench coat. It should be free, the sleeves of the coat should be 2-4 centimeters longer than the sleeves of the jacket. The length of the coat, as a rule, is 95 – 115 centimeters. Men of high height should buy a long coat. Gentlemen with low height should have shorter coats.

Classic coat (Paletot)

The very name “Coat” is of French origin, which characterizes a fairly short double-breasted or single-breasted coat, with or without pockets. Today, a double-breasted coat is very popular and it is one of the main items of businessmen’s wardrobe.

Features of a classic coat:

Coat double-breasted, usually 6 – 8 buttons.
The upper buttons are located farther away from each other than the lower ones, while the upper ones are not fastened at all.
Sharpened lapels.
The width of the classic coat is tightly adjacent to the waist with a belt or straight, without a belt.

Stylish charcoal grey overcoat

Double-breasted long coat

The coat is made of different types of fabric. As a rule, are popular black, dark blue, or gray coats. Suitable for business dress codes, including tuxedos.

The Ulster coat comes from the Irish province of Ulster, where locals popularized a special tweed coat.

Features of the Ulster coat:

The coat is sewn long and has 6 or 8 buttons.
The high collar allows you to cover your neck from the wind.
Sewing pockets and sleeves are sewn from above.
Thickly stitched coat edges.
Made of dense tweed fabric.

Double-breasted ulster coat

Ulster double-breasted coat

The Ulster coat is a great piece of outerwear in cold and rainy weather. Tweed fabric does not let the wind pass, keeps warm, and perfectly hides the dirt and stains. However, the Ulster coat is not suitable for a businessman, as it is very cumbersome, and the color does not correspond to the business classics.

Polo Coat

The Polo Coat is a classic American coat that, strange as it may seem, originates in the UK. In the polo game, players wore a gold cape with a belt to keep them out of the cold. A little later, the belt was replaced with buttons. Players wore a coat after the game and in the late 1920s, Polo coats became one of the most popular items of outerwear for men.

Features of the Polo coat:

The coat is made of golden or yellow-brown camel wool. Sometimes 50/50 with ordinary wool.
There is a belt on the waist.
As a rule 6, sometimes 8 buttons.
Pockets are sewn from above.
Collar or lapels sometimes contain additional overlays.

Men’s casual long trench coat

Brown double-breasted long trench coat

Apparently, the Polo coat is very similar to the Ulster coat but has a fabric composition and golden color.

So, we have disassembled 6 classic variants of coats, which remain relevant for many decades. A good coat is certainly worth the money, but it is a reasonable investment, especially when we talk about high comfort, style, and even prestige. With proper care, a man’s coat will serve for more than a dozen years, maybe even remain your children.

In conclusion, we would like to show you some actual models of coats from the current season collections, which you can find in the shops:

Classic double and single-breasted coat

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